Snow Day

(This post was written on Sunday, December 20.)

I wish I could say that I liked snow. Really I do. I can see the appeal — it's fluffy, it's white, and, I'm all for looking at a winter wonderland. But, when you come right down to it, or, more specifically, go out into it, it's wet. It's cold. And, I don't have the wardrobe. The zipper on my snow boots broke last week, my fingers stick out of my $4 gloves, and, while I have a decent coat, I look terrible in hats — like an egg or Kojak. And, lo and behold, I created a child who is anything but chomping at the bit to go outside and join perhaps slightly fun-er families on the skating rink or sledding hill.

Needless to say, I'm not entirely thrilled with the nor'easter currently falling outside my window.


Pretty? Perhaps. But I'm glad I'm inside. I woke early yesterday and shopped, effectively buying food for 20 to feed the two of us this weekend — an excessive amount of braising and baking seemed to be called for. I may not own snow pants or solid gloves, but my stove is ready, and my refrigerator is full. Here's an account of what I like to do on a snowy day. If, like me, you're trying to lose several pounds before your sister's impending 30th birthday party in LA, you may want to set out on a different food journey. Or at least, between meals, get out to the rink or onto the hill. I would be doing that myself, of course, if I only had the clothes.

8:30 a.m. Apple Cider Doughnuts

Make these immediately if you've never had a hot, fresh doughnut.

Apple Cider Doughnuts
Adapted from Gourmet magazine, November 2007
(you'll need a 2" round doughnut cutter and a deep fat thermometer)

1 c apple cider
3 1/2 c all-purpose flour
1T baking powder
1 1/4 t baking soda
scant teaspoon salt
2 t cinnamon, divided
1/2 c well-shaken buttermilk
3/4 stick unsalted butter, melted
2 large eggs
2 c sugar, divided
3 quarts canola oil

Boil cider in a small heavy saucepan until reduced to about 1/3 c, 12 - 15 minutes, then cool completely.

Whisk together flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, and 1 t cinnamon.

Whisk together reduced cider, buttermilk, butter, eggs, and 1c sugar in a small bowl. Mix into flour mixture with your hands until dough forms.

Turn out onto a well-floured surface and pat with lightly floured hands into a 13-inch round (about 1/3" thick). Cut out rounds with floured cutter and transfer to a baking sheet lined with floured parchment paper. Repeat with scraps, but roll out only once. I like to save the doughnut holes and cook them as well.

Heat oil to 370 degrees in a 5-quart heavy pot over medium heat. Slide as many doughnuts that fit into the oil. When they float to the surface, turn over with tongs and fry, turning one more time, until golden brown, 1.5 - 2 minutes. Drain on paper towels. Repeat with remaining dough, returning oil to 370 between batches. Cool slightly and dredge in the remaining cinnamon and sugar, mixed in a small bowl. Eat while still warm. Yum.


1:00 p.m. Leftover Chicken Pot Pie (I'll share the recipe another time — I can only expect to hold your attention for so long, and I want to get to the main event.)

7:00 p.m. Short Ribs

These definitely take an afternoon when you have
nothing better to do, but they're worth it.

Slow Braised Short Ribs
Adapted from Gourmet magazine, October 2003 (who, themselves, adapted it from Barbara Lynch, our fabulous local chef)

Serves 8

8 long meaty short ribs
kosher salt
black pepper
2T olive oil
1 large onion, coarsely chopped
2 medium carrots, coarsely chopped
3 celery ribs, coarsely chopped
1/2 c tomato paste
2 c dry red wine
1/2 c red-wine vinegar
1 quart beef stock or reconstituted beef-veal demiglace concentrate (Gourmet says specifically not to use beef broth, but I used Whole Foods beef broth in the cardboard container, and the results were very good)
2 c water
2 thyme sprigs
1 bay leaf
1/4 lb Niman Farms Applewood Smoked Bacon, cut crosswise into 1/4" slices

Put rack in middle position and preheat oven to 325 degrees.

Pat ribs dry and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Heat oil in a wide 6 - 8 quart heavy pot over moderately high heat, just until smoking, then brown ribs in batches, without crowding, turning w tongs, about 6 minutes per batch. Transfer to a plate.

Reduce heat to moderate, then cook onion, carrots, and celery in fat remaining in pot, stirring occasionally, until softened and lightly browned on edges, about 7 minutes.

Stir in tomato paste, wine, and vinegar, and boil over high heat, uncovered, until liquid is reduced by half, about 5 minutes. Add stock, water, thyme, and bay leaf and bring to a boil. Add ribs, along w any juices accumulated on plate.

Cover pot tightly, then transfer to oven and braise ribs until meat is very tender, 2 1/2 to 3 hours.

Transfer ribs to a platter and discard bones, then let meat stand, loosely covered w a sheet of parchment paper or foil. Pour cooking liquid through a fine-mesh sieve into a bowl. Discard solids. Put cooking liquid into the refrigerator until fat rises to the surface (abt 15 minutes), then skim fat.

While cooking liquid chills, cook bacon (lardons) in cleaned pot over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until golden and crisp, about 7 minutes, then transfer to paper towels to drain. Pour off bacon fat from pot, then add short rib cooking liquid and lardons to pot. Slowly boil, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until sauce is reduced to about 2 cups, about 15 minutes. Season w salt and pepper.

Trim fat and connective tissue from meat, then gently transfer meat to sauce and cook over moderate heat, uncovered until just heated through.

I served ribs over mashed potatoes, parsnips, and baby turnips.